Explore Malawi beyond the Lake
You don’t come to Cape Town and only visit its most famous attraction: Table Mountain. After all, there are also penguins and whales to see, and fine food and wine to be enjoyed. And so it is with Malawi. Known almost exclusively for Lake Malawi, this African country has a lot more to it than its famous lake. There are wildlife reserves to explore and cultural tastes to sample – but first, let’s start with the lake.
Rather like Table Mountain in Cape Town, a visit to Malawi would be somewhat incomplete without some time at Lake Malawi. Known as Lake Nyasa in neighbouring Tanzania and Lago Niassa where it lies in Mozambique, this enormous body of freshwater dominates a Malawi safari. You could, if you wanted or if pressed for time, spend your whole time at the lake. Much of Lake Malawi falls under protection as a national park and it is ideal for a beach holiday with some low-key wildlife watching: birds, monkeys and antelope.
Choose your area of the lake carefully: the most popular area is the southern part of the lake, based around the Nankumba Peninsula. Here you’ll find Monkey Bay and Cape Maclear with plenty of resort-style lodges on offer, either in or close to the national park. It’s classic Lake Malawi but for a more exclusive experience, head for Likoma Island. Lying in tropical-coloured Mozambican waters, Likoma has the best diving and snorkelling in the lake and was made for romantic retreats.
The northern lake is where you’ll find the Chintheche area; it’s much quieter in this part of the lake, and even more laid-back (if that is possible in Malawi). Home to boutique lodges and beach resorts, Chintheche is also ideal for travellers heading to the wildlife reserves in the north of the country.
And speaking of wildlife, here’s where a Lake Malawi safari gets interesting.
Malawi is currently undergoing something of a conservation revolution. Formerly decrepit national parks have been rejuvenated and restocked; animals that were once locally extinct – elephants, lions, buffalo – are now back in the Malawi landscape. And although the scale of wildlife is modest (compared to, say, Botswana or Tanzania) it is growing and your visit is part of the recovery. Where to go? There are two major players in Malawi’s big game destinations: Liwonde National Park, and Majete Wildlife Reserve.
Liwonde lies south of Lake Malawi. Dominated by the winding Shire River, it is home to herds of elephant and buffalo as well as lions and black rhino. Vultures now fly in the air, cheetah race across the floodplains and even wild dogs have begun breeding there. Choose from value-for-money camps to luxury lodges and mix up your activities between game drives and river cruises. Keep your visit between April and October if you want to avoid the rainy season.
The Majete Wildlife Reserve requires a further drive south. And you can even do it yourself; Malawi has become a self-drive destination – you’ll need to hire a 4X4 – but there are also tours and transfers available. The reward for the drive? Malawi’s best Big Five destination (lion, elephant, leopard, buffalo and rhino) as well as the only place you’ll find giraffe in the country – more than enough reason to go there. Majete also has the densest concentration of predators: big cats, wild dogs and hyena. Like Liwonde, you’ll explore by vehicle and boat, and like Liwonde this reserve is run by a non-profit conservation organisation; your stay there really does contribute to the sustainability of the park as well as engaging the local community.
Thirsty work, all this driving. Why not add the nearby Thyolo district to your itinerary; it’s Malawi’s prime tea-growing region and offers a tea-tasting experience.
Malawi’s other wildlife destinations are not as dramatically full of animals like Liwonde and Majete but they offer unique destinations for hiking, wildlife spotting and birding. Conveniently set on the edge of central Lake Malawi, Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is home to animals such as lion and elephant as well as a destination with guided hiking and mountain biking. The Viphya Mountains are worth including as you make your way north of Lake Malawi. The rolling hills and peaks of the Viphya are perfect walking country and famous for their birdwatching, a good introduction to the jewel of the north – Nyika National Park.
Nyika lies in the north of Malawi, close to the lake but high on a grassy plateau. The views are sensational, especially in flower season when you can see some of the 200 orchid species recorded here. It’s a curious, almost Alpine landscape of big animals but few predators, making it ideal hiking and biking country. And with over 400 recorded bird species in the park, birders will be well-advised to bring their binoculars.
Malawi – more than the lake.