Hermanus – More than Whale Watching

Lying little more than a two-hour drive from Cape Town, the coastal town of Hermanus is a popular addition to an itinerary in South Africa’s Cape region. World-famous for its land and-sea-based whale watching, Hermanus neatly divides its season into two: Whale Season, and uhm, Non-Whale Season. But as binary as that sounds, there are many reasons to visit Hermanus and indeed spend several nights there – and not just in whale season.

Bring hiking boots, a camera, binoculars and a taste for fine food and wine. Got children? Even better: I hope they like penguins. Let’s see what Hermanus has to offer.

WHALE WATCHING

The classic whale watching season at Hermanus revolves around the appearance of Southern Right Whales in the shallow coastal waters of the Western Cape. It’s the Indian Ocean, but not that you’d know it: the ocean here is as blue as a tropical lagoon but as cold as the Antarctic from which it derives most of its current. But it is warm and inviting enough for these enormous whales to migrate there from the frigid southern oceans to mate, breed and give birth.

The result is an amazing opportunity to see whales waving their tails, flapping their fins and even breeching – jumping out of the water – from the comfort of dry land or by boat. And when I say dry land, I mean it: you can park the car, get out, and there they are in the water in front of you.

When, of course, is the question: southern right whales begin arriving in July and leave by the end of November. Peak season is September and October with the last weekend in September usually being the annual Hermanus Whale Festival (book early). But these rich, diverse coastal waters teem with life throughout the year and a Marine Safari may yield seals, dolphins, sharks and even other whales – especially Humpback Whales in December and January.

HIKING & NATURE

Did you bring those boots? Good, because you are in the heart of excellent hiking country. Hermanus has its own nature reserve with a series of hiking trails taking you up into mountains with grand views and flower-filled vegetation – the fynbos that covers the Cape mountains. There are easy beach walks in Hermanus but nothing beats the famous Cliff Path that winds its way along the curves of the coast. Starting at the centre of town and over 12 kilometres long (7.5 miles), much of the path is wheelchair accessible and presents great opportunities for whale spotting.

Want more nature? Drive forty minutes south of Hermanus and you arrive at Gansbaai, home to South Africa’s best shark-cage diving experience. Accompanied by a marine biologist, you’ll get on board a charter boat and head for – where else – but Shark Alley for your cage dive. Great White sharks are the main attraction but there are several other species to look for. Prefer to keep your feet on dry land? Try the Kogelberg Biosphere: another forty-minute drive from Hermanus, the Kogelberg is a World Heritage Site and a place of stunning natural beauty. Hike for a morning along the river or deeper into the interior; there are even eco-cottages there, ideal for a unique immersion in the mountain landscape. Combine hiking with trips to a local penguin colony and botanical garden, and now you have a complete overview of the Cape’s natural side.

BIRDING

Here’s the thing about birding in the Cape. There aren’t that many species compared to – say – the Kruger Park or Botswana, but the birds that are here are invariably only found in the Cape. Thus a birder will be able to add many new species to their total, most of which can be found in easy circumstances. Fernkloof Reserve in Hermanus will deliver unique mountain birds, but the keen birder should also include other local destinations.

Where and how? Consider hiring a birding guide: the best birding areas are under an hour’s drive from Hermanus. Some are easy to find (Stony Point Penguin Colony, Harold Porter Botanical Gardens) but others are not, and it’s those others that yield the rarest of local birds. Want more birds? There are Pelagic Birding trips that leave from Gansbaai – your chance to see albatrosses, skuas and other ocean wanderers but you’ll need to book way ahead of time.

FINE DINING & WINE TASTING

There’s plenty of good food and wine in Hermanus but for the classic Cape cuisine experience, most people would recommend the Cape Winelands, something of an hour’s drive away if you go to the traditional – and excellent – restaurants and wineries of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. Now you have three hundred years of winemaking to try as well as the best food in the country.

But there’s no need to drive that far: the Hemel en Aarde Valley runs into Hermanus and has built a reputation for excellent food and wine, especially Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This ‘Heaven and Earth’ Valley is at the forefront of new, innovative and exciting wave of South African wine making – go and have a taste of it.

Accessible from Cape Town on day tours or as part of a self-drive itinerary, Hermanus makes a great addition to a South African holiday. The mountain and ocean scenery is wonderful, it’s an area ideal for self-driving and it’s only an hour and a half from Cape Town International Airport so you can easily make those connections to the Kruger Park. And if you have children with you, then not only is Hermanus family-friendly, but also ideal to combine with the malaria-free Big Five wildlife reserves of the Eastern Cape – whales, penguins, lions and elephants on one tour. Now that’s more than just whale watching.