Ilona in Zambia and Malawi
My latest journey began with a flight to Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls followed by a border crossing the next day to Livingstone in Zambia. Although you can fly directly into Livingstone, I wanted to check out the border crossing, which actually took less than 30 minutes. I walked across the famous railway bridge, and obtained my entry visa on arrival in Zambia.
The dizzying view from the top of Batoka Gorge, downstream from Victoria Falls.
My first night in Livingstone was spent a little way out of town, overlooking the Batoka Gorge, into which the Zambezi River pours. The view was just about indescribable but I shall try: there is such a profound quietness high above the gorge, making it feel as if time stands still, and you cannot help but be silent in the presence of such beauty.
Livingstone offers a variety of accommodation, either downriver from the Victoria Falls or upstream along the banks of the Zambezi River, and they cater to different preferences – honeymoon, family, budget and so on. I met my travel companions for the start our Zambian adventure and we started it right there: Livingstone has many activities and you need a minimum of three days, ideally four, to really experience all this town has to offer.
Checking out some of the top experiences – including Devil’s Pool – it’s easier than it looks!
First on our list, a bucket list item for many, was a visit to Livingstone Island, at the edge of Victoria Falls, and the world-famous Devil’s Pool or Angels Pool, depending on the season. It’s not an activity for the faint-hearted but the views from anywhere on the river are spectacular, and I highly recommend the excursion even if you decide not to swim. Next, we visited the Mukuni Organic Community Farm, an upliftment project aimed at creating jobs and ensuring food security. We ended the day with a sunset cruise in an electric dhow on the Zambezi River, stopping at a sandbar to have sundowners and watch the sunset.
The quieter side of the Zambezi River – slow boats, sunsets and sundowner drinks.
Additional activities in Livingstone include games drive and walks in the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, elephant interactions, mountain biking, and of course the things that Victoria Falls is famous for: white-water rafting, bunji jumping and helicopter flights. In the evenings, we were entertained by local performances, either by the community choir or traditional dancers.
Flying between destinations is by light plane: keep your camera handy, the views are epic.
The next morning, we took a flight to the Busanga Plains in the Kafue National Park, one of Zambia’s largest and oldest parks. On the drive to camp we saw lechwe antelope leaping across shallow pools of water and the puku, another wetland-adapted antelope. Busanga’s floodplains, accessible for vehicles from June to November, draw large numbers of these antelope and buffalo as well as their predators, making for exceptional game-viewing.
Activities in Busanga Plains include morning and afternoon game drives, walking safaris, and eco-bike tours. This pristine and remote wilderness is recommended for travellers who have been to the more famous safari destinations and are looking for exclusivity and vast open landscapes without other game drive vehicles. Meals at camp were mostly served under the starry skies, either around the campfire or in the open with lanterns lighting up the beautiful surroundings.
A fish-eagle statue shows the way to the infinity pool: I could get used to this.
The next morning, we had an early flight to Chunga to visit central Kafue. A half-hour flight and an hour road transfer had us arriving at the Kafue River for a short boat transfer to the lodge – it’s quite an adventure to get there! In this part of Kafue, you enjoy both game drives and boat safaris and since you are on the river, you can watch from your viewing deck as herds of buffalo and elephant come down to the river to drink. These two areas of Kafue National Park are very different, and each worth exploring for a diversity of wildlife.
Our next destination was the Lower Zambezi National Park. Our charter flight stopped at Lusaka en route to refuel before our final landing for the day, followed by a vehicle and then boat transfer. I was getting used to this by now, especially when we were welcomed with iced face cloths and a welcome drink, a standard at all the lodges, after which we were introduced to our “Muchindas,” our personal valets for the duration of our stay.
These camps are not fenced and wildlife often gets close but we never felt threatened.
Lower Zambezi morning activities include canoeing, tiger fishing, sunrise cruises, walking, or game drives. Afternoon options are game drives or sunset cruises. I tried my hand at tiger fishing and, although I didn’t catch one, my guide kindly told me that I helped catch the bait needed for the tiger fish. Elephants were frequent visitors in and around the camp, and we had numerous lion sightings. We were also fortunate enough to see a leopard resting in a tree after a successful hunt.
Communal meals in fabulous locations bought everyone together and were a lot of fun.
We enjoyed surprise ‘bush dinners’ and ‘water lunches’ during our stay but too soon it was time to say goodbye and fly to Mfuwe Airport and the South Luangwa where friendly staff greeted our arrival before showing us to our tents. The lodge lies just outside the South Luangwa National Park but a five-minute pontoon crossing gets you into the park to enjoy morning and afternoon game drives in e-cruisers – yes, technology has come to Zambia in a big way.
Zambian lodges were as good as anywhere else I’ve been to and there was always wildlife to see.
I opted for a walking safari the next morning with an armed scout to get up close and personal with nature. The experience did not disappoint. Among other big animals, we encountered some old male buffalos, ‘Dagga Boys’ as they are called. They are usually much feared but they decided we were not worth the effort and continued grazing.
The vegetation and scenery in South Luangwa are different from the previous areas we visited, with dramatic seasonal changes throughout the year. Meals were served in the open, with bush breakfasts and lunches providing a truly African safari experience but it was time for Malawi and since Mfuwe is an international airport, we cleared customs and immigration there before our flight. We arrived in Lilongwe after an hour’s flight, cleared customs and immigration, and refuelled for our flight to our destination, Likoma Island on Lake Malawi.
Postcards from … the Seychelles? No, this is Lake Malawi, in the middle of Africa!
We approached the lodge via a lakeside village; Lake Malawi does not look like a typical freshwater lake. Instead of cold grey or brown water, it has warm, crystal-clear turquoise water and white sandy beaches that rival any tropical island experience in the Indian Ocean – seriously! It was the perfect end to our bush safari, and we could choose to do nothing (tempting) or any one of the inclusive activities offered at the lodge – snorkelling, sailing, canoeing, stand-up paddle boarding and mountain biking. Additional non-inclusive activities like PADI diving, water skiing, and wakeboarding are available and in the late afternoon before dinner, you enjoy entertainment by local bands, who get everyone dancing on the beach as the sun sets – this is Malawi after all.
All the lodges and camps we stayed at were right on point. Staff welcomed us with warm smiles and cold drinks, making us feel right at home. Breakfasts consisted of a continental selection with an option to order a hot breakfast, including pancakes, oats porridge, omelettes, eggs benedict, or a good old English breakfast. For lunch and dinner, we had an à la carte menu with two starters, two mains, and a dessert, with one being a vegetarian option. Dinner choices were made before heading out on our afternoon activity; if you have any special dietary requirements, make sure you inform your consultant upfront when booking to assist the lodges in preparing your meals.
I always looked forward to this time of day; big smiles and cold drinks with an African sunset.
This was the end, unfortunately for now, of a unique safari experience in Zambia and an island holiday in Malawi. I highly recommend considering Zambia and Malawi for your next African safari. Take it from me: you can expect remote and pristine wildlife areas without the crowds plus amazing cuisine, exceptional guiding, and friendly locals along the way.
