Ilona & Lindsey’s Kruger adventure
Our journey began in Johannesburg with a mid-morning Airlink flight to the Kruger region. After an hour’s flight, we landed at the very small, Hoedspruit Airport. Outside the terminal or at the “Baggage Collection” area, a representative holding a sign with your name will typically be waiting.
Our driver was very friendly and helpful; we were offered cold water from the cooler and began our two hour journey toward the Blyde River Canyon to commence our Panorama Tour.
Panorama Tour
The Blyde River Canyon is the third largest canyon in the world and the largest green canyon, thus making it one of the most visited attractions in South Africa and definitely on the list of activities to do in Mpumalanga, before your Kruger safari. There are four ways in which you can visit the Canyon: from the viewpoints at the Three Rondavels – which is what we did – or white-river rafting or flying over it with a helicopter or microlight and, lastly, with a scenic boat trip.
The entrance fee to the Blyde River Nature Reserve grants access to several stunning panoramic spots overlooking the canyon and the area is well-signposted, with information about its rich history. Several local vendors offered a variety of crafts and curios for guests to purchase.
From there we headed to our next stop, the Bourke’s Luck Potholes, approximately half an hour away. The Potholes, a natural water feature, were named after a gold digger, Tom Burke. It also marks the beginning of the Blyde River Canyon. There is an informative visitors’ centre that is the starting point of the 700m walk to the potholes. It gives you a great opportunity to stretch your legs. There are some hikes that can be done from this location as well. Access to various points depends on the water levels at the time.
We continued onto the Berlin Falls, shaped like a huge white candle, the falls flow through a natural sluice before cascading down into a deep pool. The setting sun cast a golden shimmer on the water below. We were just soaking in the beauty of the falls, the serenity that came from the sounds of the water and spectacular views over the river.
For those interested, we recommend dedicating a full day to the Panorama Tour to include additional highlights like Lone Creek Falls, God’s Window, Pinnacle Rock, Lisbon or Mac Mac Falls, and lunch at Harrie’s Pancakes.
We returned to Hoedspruit for the night to absorb the activities of the day. Hoedspruit offers a variety of accommodations, ranging from family-friendly manor houses to boutique hotels, all offering guests a comfortable base from which to enjoy a few additional activities and tours available in the area including Hot Air ballooning, Cruises in the Canyon, Horse Riding, River Rafting, and special elephant encounters.
The next morning, well rested and fed we were on our way to Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. We highly recommend using a reliable transfer company to transfer in between the lodges and various reserves as we discovered that many of the road conditions on our trip were very poor and these companies are familiar with the best routes to use. Lodges with access to airstrips offer guests a more convenient way to reach the lodge by either private charter or scheduled charter services. Short air-transfers are also available between lodges in different reserves.
Insider tip: One cannot rely on Google maps to get you around in these parts of the country.
Visitors to the Kruger National Park and its surrounding private reserves will be thrilled to know that the fences separating these areas have been removed, creating a vast, unfenced wilderness where animals roam freely across thousands of hectares, offering guests an authentic and immersive safari experience with exceptional game-viewing opportunities.
Klaserie Private Nature Reserve
The Reserve is located just an hour’s drive from Hoedspruit Airport, and offers a variety of lodges from rustic tented camps to upmarket 5-star lodges. The accommodation level and prices vary based on factors like the number of guests per game drive vehicle, the presence of a tracker, and additional amenities like a personal butler, gym, or spa. Dining styles also differ, with some lodges offering à la carte menus, buffets, or all-inclusive options for drinks and snacks.
Upon arrival at our first lodge, we were warmly welcomed with refreshing face towels and reusable water bottles to fill at the bar’s water station. After a brief tour of the main areas and our rooms, we had time to freshen up before our Asian inspired lunch.
Our first game drive in the reserve did not disappoint! We saw wildebeest, elephants, zebras, giraffe and a sleepy leopard with a full tummy, fast a sleep under a bush! We stopped for a well-deserved sundowner break at the lodges viewing deck that offered us incredible views over the reserve while watching the sun set and enjoying a cold one.
We were treated to a boma dinner on our return (open-air South African barbecue, where food is grilled over coals and served with traditional sides) while the lodge staff provided the entertainment, singing in one of the local languages and doing traditional dances to close off the evening.
Both Lodges we stayed at in the Klaserie were in the Southern region, where it was evident that the low rains of the previous summer had resulted in many of the waterholes drying up. Our drive up toward the North-western sector of the Reserve revealed how quickly the landscape and vegetation can change when water is more available. The Klaserie River is a life-giving essential water source to the animals that will migrate along it in search of food and water.
On our final evening drive in the Klaserie, we set out in search of lions, guided by a report that they were heading up the main road between the Klaserie and Timbavati Reserves. Our hearts melted when we encountered four tiny cubs trailing behind their mothers along the road. The sight was an absolute overload of cuteness! We marvelled at how these little ones managed to keep pace with their mothers, despite the speed at which they were moving.
Insider tip: If budget and time allows, we recommend that guests try book more than one lodge in different reserves as each region offers so much diversity, in landscape, scenery as well as wildlife as we were about to find heading to the world famous Sabi Sands.
Western Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve
The Reserve is located within the Greater Kruger area and features a rich and varied landscape that supports an incredible diversity of wildlife. The vegetation is a mix of acacia-dominated savannahs, bushveld and riverine forests along the Sand and Sabi Rivers, which are vital water sources throughout the year. These perennial rivers create lush, fertile areas that attract numerous animals, particularly during dry seasons. The reserve’s landscape ranges from open grasslands to thickets, providing ideal habitats for predators and prey alike. The abundant water sources and varied terrain make Sabi Sands a prime location for both game viewing and birding.
Our first three lodges were all located in the Western Sector of the Sabi Sands, this region offers an exceptional blend of luxury and raw wilderness. The accommodation options in this area are as diverse as the landscape ranging from small, intimate lodges perfect for couples seeking a secluded escape, to family-friendly lodges which are ideal also for multi-generational family trips. Each lodge we visited was beautifully integrated into its surroundings, with some perched dramatically on clifftops, offering stunning views over rivers, waterholes and the endless bushveld.
All the lodges we visited here had a guide and a tracker on the safari vehicle. Their unmatched knowledge of the land and its wildlife transforms each game drive into an adventure. Working together seamlessly, they track animals with precision. Their deep understanding of animal behaviour, combined with a commitment to offering the best possible sightings, ensures that every guest leaves with unforgettable memories.
One cold and very windy morning drive, we were treated to an amazing sighting: 7 adult wild dogs and 10 puppies! Let’s rather call it a “pile of puppies”. They lay curled up in the grass drawing warmth from one another. Seeing such a rare and intimate moment, especially with an endangered species like the African wild dog, was nothing short of magical. At one point the Alpha female decided it was time to move and pounced all over the puppies to get them up. Their high-pitched squeals and squeaks filled the air as they all got moving.
Insider tip: It is always recommended to layer up and take a warm jacket on game drives, even during summer, as they are done in open vehicles.
The Sabi Sands is famous also for its frequent leopard sightings, although this predator is known for its remarkable camouflage and stealth, making each sighting a thrilling experience. We observed a solitary leopard, not so elegantly stretched over a tree branch, catching a nap, and witnessed a mother and her two young cubs well hidden in a tree. While the young ones tugged at the meat of an impala draped over a branch, mom was ready to pick up all the scraps they dropped on the floor below to ward off other predators who might be in the area. Our third leopard sighting was a young male stalking through some grass, likely looking for small scrub hares. We were in awe at how intimately the guides and trackers get to know each leopard, naming each one based on certain qualities / traits or markings they display. The storytelling on each safari was just wonderful.
We witnessed another incredible sighting – not all that common and a real treat: lions in the tree! Yes, these strong cats can and do climb trees! Two playful juveniles were sharpening their climbing and balancing skills.
As if that wasn’t enough, we reached another great sighting – a pack of hyenas and several vultures scavenging a buffalo carcass. Just two nights earlier, guests from another vehicle at our lodge had been right in the middle of the action when two male lions hunted the very buffalo we were looking at. In just 36 hours, they had witnessed the entire cycle of predator activity from the hunt to the feast and the clean-up.
Speaking of buffalo, there is nothing more jaw-dropping than seeing hundreds of buffalo come to drink water at a waterhole. Some on the side and some right in the water. We just enjoyed watching them – watch us….
One thing that was very evident was the large number of young offspring. Baby elephant, baby rhino, baby giraffe, cubs, pups and even baby hippos!
Have you ever seen a hippo run? Well, we did! Running parallel to our vehicle. This burst of energy was both awe-inspiring and somewhat comical, as it contrasts sharply with their usual, more serene demeanour in the water. With their enormous bodies and short legs, they move surprisingly fast, reaching speeds of up to 45km per hour.
Northern Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve
After three nights in the Western Sector, we transferred by road to the Northen Sabi Sands. The transfer was a very bumpy 2-hour ride, commonly referred to the African-Massage. We would recommend an air transfer to guests if possible.
On arrival at our lodge, we were warmly welcomed and served lunch on the deck of our two-bedroom suite while listening to hippos honk and swim in the water below us. This unfenced lodge was as close to nature as it possibly could get. The most incredible waterhole in front of the lodge allowed for the perfect “ lilo safari”. There was always something to see at the waterhole. If it wasn’t hippo or crocodiles, it was a pride of lions or a heard of elephants.
Once again, the game viewing was spectacular with more leopards, rhino, elephant, buffalo, impala, giraffe, zebra, hippo and a 4-strong male lion coalition with an incredible story told by the guide of how they are travelling vast distances to claim territory.
Insider tip: With only one night here, it was just too short to enjoy all the delights of the lodge. Will always recommend staying at least two nights at one lodge. Never less.
Each game drive was fantastic… a new adventure with new surprises, but what would a safari be without the safari-chariot?
Game drive vehicles
The safari vehicles are as varied as the lodges themselves, each tailored to enhance your adventure in unique ways. Some come equipped with a “box of tricks,” a convenient kit featuring sunscreen, blankets, binoculars, protective glasses and hand sanitizer. We even experienced another level of luxury by having heated seats on one of the vehicles. On colder mornings this adds an extra touch of comfort. These thoughtful features made each safari drive more memorable, reflecting the attention to detail and care that goes into creating a superb safari experience.
Safari cuisine
Our food experience on safari was nothing short of exceptional, offering a delightful array of dining options that added an extra layer of enjoyment to our adventure. Meals were wonderfully varied, with dining locations shifting regularly to keep each experience fresh and exciting. Morning coffee-stops while on safari were always hosted at a scenic location with a chance to stretch legs and enjoy the bush surroundings.
One of the highlights during a morning safari was arriving at a surprise bush brunch where we savoured an assortment of delicious treats, champagne and smoothies, all while taking in breathtaking views over the reserve. We decided to walk back to the lodge with our guide who was armed for our protection. Nothing like the adrenaline in your veins as you are surrounded by the wilderness and perhaps the thought of what may be within close proximity to you.
Boma dinners and lantern lit garden dinners afforded us an opportunity to dine under the stars with only the sounds of the bush to serenade us.
One evening we had a unique dining experience aboard a restored vintage train carriage still resting on its original tracks. The train, originally used for passenger travel, has been lovingly transformed into an intimate dining space, blending historical elegance with modern comfort. Our guide shared fascinating facts about the train’s past. The carriage itself, with its polished wooden interiors and period details, provided a nostalgic backdrop to our meal. The train dinner wasn’t just a meal; it was a journey through time, offering a special connection to a bygone era.
Hospitality
One thing that stood out, no matter where we stayed was the incredible hospitality that we encountered at all the lodges. The attention to service and detail was impeccable. One never wants to leave as you form a bond with your guide and tracker and the lovely butlers that serve you. They invite you into their “family” and you feel home while you away from home. Meeting other guests from around the world adds another level of community to the experience.
As they say, all good things do have to come to an end and so on the last day, after our morning safari, delicious breakfast and sad goodbyes, we headed to the airstrip for our light aircraft transfer. Our pilot introduced himself, loaded our bags and warmed up the engines. Our guide went ahead to make sure no animals were on the runway and gave all clear. We bumped down the dirt runway in the little Cessna 206, turned and headed down the runway lifting off gently into the sky. We flew smoothly over the Kruger, spotting wildlife below us. 25 minutes later, we landed back at Hoedspruit airport. We checked in our luggage, visited the little gift shop and headed through security for our Airlink flight home to Johannesburg.
Our trip was magical, memorable and soulful! Africa will call again…. Once you have been, you will keep coming back!
