As someone who owns a safari company, I spend my life designing dream journeys for others. I know the lodges, the reserves and the logistics like the back of my hand. But it’s true magic to experience the African bush through the eyes of your own 10-year-old child.
Recently, my son Jano and I, packed our duffel bags and headed out for a four-night father-son adventure in Kenya’s legendary Masai Mara. It was a trip of deep bonding with Jano & strong reminder of the love that I have for this continent, it’s people and it’s fauna and flora.
Our journey began at Cottars 1920 Safari Camp, located in a private conservancy right on the border of the Masai Mara Reserve and the border of Tanzania. Walking into Cottars is like stepping into a living romance novel from a bygone era. Think authentic canvas tents, vintage luxury, brass finishes, and an ambiance that whispers tales of early African explorers. For me, it was a masterclass in classic hospitality; for Jano, my ten-year-old, it was the ultimate adventure playground.
Of course, a safari is only as good as your guide. A luxury tent is lovely, but the guide is your lens into the wild. On this trip, we were blessed with Douglas. Brilliant, patient, and infinitely knowledgeable, Douglas didn’t just spot wildlife; he narrated the savanna. We loved our time with Doug and he truly stands out as one of the best guides I have ever met. And as you can imagine as a safari owner I have been on many safaris.
One afternoon, the bush offered us a different kind of playground. We went down to the Sand River, where the water cascades over the rugged rocks, creating a natural, large pool right at a small 5-meter-high waterfall. Leaving the 4×4 behind, we splashed around, laughed, swam and fished in the cool water with the vast blue sky above us. It was a beautiful, simple moment of pure childhood joy, framed by the wild Kenyan landscape. Certainly, an exceptional highlight of our trip.
For the second half of our adventure, we moved over to the Mara North Conservancy to stay at Offbeat Ndoto. If Cottars is grand vintage luxury, Ndoto is an intimate, small sanctuary. With only a handful of tents tucked into the vegetation, it offered a raw, immersive connection to the wilderness.
At Ndoto, the activities shifted to a slower, equally rewarding pace. We swapped the vehicle for fishing rods one afternoon. Sitting by a quiet bend in the river, teaching my son how to cast a line while keeping a casual eye out for hippos and elephant, was an incredible experience. Jano caught 10 catfish and set a record in the area.
A trip to the Mara is never complete without honoring the people who have coexisted with this wildlife for centuries. We visited a traditional Masai Cultural Village on the last morning. The vibrant shúkàs, the rhythmic jumping dance, and the warm smiles welcomed us into their world.
The absolute peak of this wild drama happened one afternoon with a pride of lions. We watched in breathless silence as a mother lion and her two grown cubs orchestrated a high-stakes warthog hunt. It didn’t just end in a chase; we witnessed the actual kill, an incredibly rare and intense moment for any safari-goer, let alone a 10-year-old.
What happened next was a fascinating display of wildlife behaviour. Instead of sharing, the family split the prize: we watched the mom firmly dragging one warthog into the thick brush, while her two cubs teamed up, dragging their own separate warthog into another bush nearby to claim their meal. Leo was completely captivated by the raw power and strategy of it all.
On the open plains, the scale of life was staggering. We came across massive, undulating herds of hundreds of zebras and heavy, formidable horn-lines of Cape buffalo moving across the savanna. We encountered an unbelievable abundance of giraffes, tracking sweeping herds of 30 or more moving gracefully against the acacia trees. We trailed massive, majestic Eland antelope, watched herds of skittering Thompson’s gazelles, and caught the striking, spiralled horns of Kudus hiding in the thicker brush.
Seeing massive elephant herds; with matriarchs guiding tiny calves, grazing peacefully against the golden horizon made me realize the amazing beauty of Africa
As a safari company owner, I am always analysing the accommodation, guiding, service, food and attention to detail. I notice the lighting, the service pacing, and the design. But our time in the Mara reminded me of a fundamental truth: staying at owner-run camps changes everything. When a camp is owner-run, it stops being just a business and becomes an extension of someone’s personality and life.
It was a soul-stirring journey that brought a father and son closer together in one of the greatest wildernesses on Earth. If you are wondering whether to take your kids on safari… do not hesitate. The wilderness is one of the greatest teachers. Get the kids as far away from devises as possible.
Until the next campfire, A Safari Dad (Walter)